Greg & Amy McLogan | Cape Coral, FL | 239-945-4583

This information is copyright, Amy Tourond 1999 and may not be reproduced without written permission from the author.

EAR CROPPING
When Herr Louis Dobermann created the Doberman Pinscher, he attempted to breed a dog with a naturally pricked (erect) ear and a naturally bob tail.  Ears are cropped on Dobermans for health, cleanliness and looks.  Most breeders crop ears when the pup is between 7 and 9 weeks of age, so if you prefer an uncropped ear, express your preference to the breeder early. Dobermans are shown uncropped in England and Australia, but very seldom in Canada and the United States. Cropped ears can add a wonderful look to the Doberman, but if not carefully handled, they may not stand properly. We will be happy to assist any of our puppy buyers in taping and caring for their puppy's ears.  If we are too far away, we will find someone near you to assist you.  Kinetic Dobermans does not sell puppies with uncropped ears.

Breeders crop the ears before a puppy is sold to ensure the procedure is done properly. A puppy not old enough for ear cropping is not old enough to be sold, and breeders also want to be sure that the ears are cropped properly on the Dobermans they breed. Usually by the time you take your puppy home, any stitches from cropping will have been removed and the ears are healed and usually up in tapes. 

Taping Supplies

1. Zonas Diachylon Zinc Based Tape by J&J available at www.jbpet.com 

2. Tampax tampons

3. Rubbing alcohol

4. Cotton swaps and Q-Tips

Procedure

1. Clean ears with rubbing alcohol inside and out. Be sure to remove any tape or adhesive gunk that may be on the ears.  Clean the bases well.  Let dry.

2. Any remaining remnant of tape on ears can be removed with Solvo-Plast (use sparingly and try to avoid inside of ear as it will burn the skin quickly - rinse thoroughly after using)

3. Measure tampon length to appropriate length for ear, fitting from the base in the ear to the tip. Back tape the tampons, so the sticky side of the tape is facing out.

4. Insert the tampon into the base of the ear (cotton side down) and press it against the ear all the way to the tip. Pull the ear upwards, stretching the ear and ensuring there are no folds or wrinkles.

5. Apply base tape to the stick with the tail of the tape toward the nose and wrap around from front to back (keeping the natural fold of the ear in tact). Do not wrap too tightly. Make certain to put base tape as low as possible on the tampon and lift ear up (always pull ear leather up tightly when wrapping to prevent taping a kink in the ear) as far as it will comfortably go.

6. Apply tip tapes the same way, then continue with strips of tape until the ears are completely enclosed.

7. Apply brace, starting over the top of the base tape, making a figure 8 with the tape. Hold both ears upright during this application to get maximum benefit. You will probably need another person. The ears should not be pulled into the center when completed, but should be in a natural upright position. Also be careful not to twist the ear on the head.

Note: Soaking the tape in rubbing alcohol helps dissolve the adhesive, and makes tape removal much easier on the pup.

Hints: Your puppy may arrive with it's ears taped to a styro-foam cup. NEVER remove this cup until it loosens enough to pull on either one or both ears or falls off on its own. The tape may curl but as long as it is holding leave it alone, at least until the cut edge of the ear is fully healed.  Then it may be removed and the taping procedure may begin.  (Consult with your breeder about removing the cup).

1. Always remove tape in the direction of hair growth to eliminate unnecessary hair loss. If there are any sore spots upon removal of tape, clean them thoroughly and sprinkle lightly with Gold Bond Powder.

2. If the ears tend to pull together at the top of the head, they probably have pockets. When retaping, pack the pockets with cotton balls. If the ears are breaking or flat down, this is a sign that they are not finished and MUST be retaped IMMEDIATELY.

3. To remove the tapes, cut each piece from the base to the tip, starting on the inside of the ear between the tape and the tampon. Cut tape on both ears before pulling the tape off one ear. There is no painless way to remove the tape, but it is easier on the puppy if you soak the tape with alcohol then pull it off. After cutting tape put one hand on the puppy's head and pull the tape off in one piece. Repeat process with the other ear. ALWAYS clean the ears thoroughly inside and out, letting them dry completely before retaping.

4. Sometimes ears are covered with a pus like fluid, caused by the hair decaying under the tape. This is nothing to be concerned about. Clean and dry the ears.

5. If the tapes get wet, THEY WILL SHRINK, thus cutting off circulation and in extreme cases the tip of the ear can fall off. The tapes MUST be changed immediately.

6. This method can last up to 10 days, when the natural secretions of the ear usually cause the tape to come away from the ear. While very fresh, in the first couple of days, the glues are quite strong and removal can be difficult.

7. General rule of thumb for when to retape is: when the ears are curling, falling down or wilted looking, put them up in tapes and leave them until the tapes come off. This is a relatively short time in a puppy's life, and the more relaxed approach will convince the puppy that this is no big deal and reduce stress on everyone.

BASIC EDUCATION

Set Some Goals
What sort of life have you chosen for your new family member? Is his career to be in show business or will he be guarding your home? Whether you acquire your Doberman at 9 weeks, or as an adult, now is the time to start showing him the way. By reading recommended literature, you can start guiding your dog to the goals you have set.

A show dog should be taught to stand while someone (a judge) goes over him, looking into his mouth and running their hands over his body; he should learn how to trot freely on a leash and to stand on a table for grooming. While all dogs should exhibit protective instincts, your guard dog should be encouraged to bark when strangers come to the door and be trained to stop barking when you tell the dog it is OK to let the stranger in.

You have to have Rules
You should start enforcing your rules the day your dog arrives. Allowing the dog to do as he pleases for weeks or months until some magic time when you think he is ready to learn is a waste of valuable time. During those last weeks or months you have actually taught the dog he can do what he wants to do. NEVER LET YOUR DOG RUN LOOSE. Practically everywhere in this country there are animal control laws and the first and foremost of these is always that dogs must not be off leash unless under the control of an owner (and in an off-leash area). If you live in a subdivision or even out in the country, a FENCED YARD is a necessity. It does not have to be enormous, just big enough so he can stretch his legs, relieve himself and sometimes spend part of the day in it. It should have a good shelter - a dog house of some kind - to give shade and warmth and to keep him out of the weather. YOUR DOG DOES NOT UNDERSTAND PROPERTY LINES. Remember, he will not necessarily stay on your own land if he is free, but will quite possibly trot over to a neighbor half a mile away and deposit a pile on his lawn, ruin his shrubbery and create a disturbance among neighborhood dogs.

Protect Your Dog
Your puppy should be tattooed or microchipped. If your dog is not tattooed (this isn't mandatory with the AKC), you can have your vet tattoo him with an identification number that can be registered and easily traceable to you if the dog should wander or be stolen. Post signs on your property and on your vehicle that your dog is protected by a registered identifying tattoo number as insurance against theft. MOST IMPORTANT is that the number be registered with a registry and with your vet.

The Perception
This is another reason for not letting your dog run loose. He can frighten children and adults. He could easily be shot in a rural area. One of the worst things that can happen is his being picked up by an unscrupulous dog trainer and sold later as an "attack dog." Another sad fate is being caught by the dogcatcher and taken to the pound. If you do not find him there in time, he will either be adopted out, put to death or used for research.

Obedience Training, a Way of Life
With an animal as intelligent and eager to work and to please you as a Doberman, the earlier you start teaching simple lessons, the more he will want to learn. If you contact an obedience club and you are told that you cannot enter your puppy until it is six months old, find another club or get yourself a good training book and start on your own. It is a disservice to a Doberman to bring an unruly six-month-old puppy to his first obedience class. He can and will learn to sit and come and heel as early as 3 or 4 months of age. If you do not put active interesting ideas into your Dobe's mind, you will find that his fertile brain is picking up ideas of its own that you may not like at all - chewing, whining, excessive barking, emptying your garbage can - just to keep from getting bored. If you ever doubt that a Doberman can learn basic obedience, remember those six Dobes that robbed the bank in the movie "The Doberman Gang". All the movements involved in that caper were variations in basic to advanced obedience training, taught with love and affection and appreciation of the canine sense of humor.

GROOMING
Did the fact that the Doberman has a short coat make you believe that it requires no grooming? Wrong! Dobermans do require grooming to keep them looking and feeling their best. Dull coats full of loose hair, dirty ears and toenails that curve under certainly do not contribute to the beauty of the breed. If the breeder of your dog or another experienced person can help you it its nice to have someone go through the entire grooming procedure with you. Always make grooming of any kind enjoyable for you and your dog. Be gentle and very patient yet firm and consistent. Talk to him while you groom, telling him how beautiful he is going to look. Praise him for being good and for letting you do all those strange things to him. Let him sniff your grooming tools. Give him an extra hug and a treat when you are finished. He will soon be accustomed to what you are doing and even grow to look forward to these very personal sessions with you.

Bathing
It is usually not necessary to regularly bathe a Doberman. However, sometimes he can get into some things that will not brush out. Use warm water and a mild shampoo like Liquid Ivory Dish Soap. Dilute each of these to 1 part shampoo to 20 parts water. Put cotton balls into the ears to prevent any water from getting in and be careful not to get soap into the eyes. Wash him away from drafts. Be sure you rinse him well and leave no soap on his skin. If you do, it will irritate the skin and may cause a rash. Dry him thoroughly with a towel, keeping him out of drafts until he is completely dry. Bathing too often can cause dry skin and dandruff. Brushing daily is much better. If you feel that you must clean the dog more frequently then use a solution of 1/3 water, 1/3 Alpha-Keri Lotion and 1/3 Listerine Mouthwash. Spray him well with this and towel dry immediately. The Listerine cleans the dirt and debris from the coat and disinfects the dog, the Alpha-Keri puts the natural keratin into the coat and the water dilutes the solution.

Brushing
Because Dobermans are short haired, their coat can usually be kept clean and free of loose hairs by a daily brushing. Go to a pet supply store and buy a brush that is neither too hard nor too soft, but in between. You can even use a regular chamois cloth that can be purchased at a hardware store. Without being rough, brush in the direction of the coat growth. This will also stimulate the natural oils in the skin. A rubber "cat brush" much like a human shampoo brush is ideal during shedding time to remove loose dead hair quickly and comfortably.

Teeth
To keep your dog's teeth free for tartar, give him something to chew on every day. The best chewing things are RAW bones (beef knuckle bones are perfect). We don't suggest rawhides, pig ears or other chemically made chewies.  Always stay with your dog when he is chewing on something and do not leave anything with him for too long at a time. Some dogs will swallow ANYTHING and get very sick, sometimes requiring surgery. Take chew toys away if you must leave him, and give the toys back to him later when you can supervise. Check your dog's teeth every time you groom him, and if there is a heavy tartar build up let your vet or breeder work on it. Do not try to scale the teeth yourself unless you know exactly how to do it. Watch for hair accumulation under the dog's gums. This must be carefully removed or it may cause infection.

Nails
Nails that are too long will ruin a Doberman's feet fast! Weekly trimming is a MUST! Buy a #727 Resco Small Animal guillotine clipper at your pet supply store. Have someone show you how to use them properly. Many people prefer to use an electric nail grinder such as the Dremel Mini-Mite Grinder available at any tool store rather that the clippers. Get instructions on how to use the grinder because it can make the nail bleed too. Grinders can make the nails hot in a short time and must be used carefully. Nail trimming can be the worst part of grooming for you and your dog, but IT IS A NECESSITY, so learn how to do it correctly and it will not be a painful experience.

1. Trim off a little nail to expose the quick. Exercise caution not to hit the quick.

2. Hold the clipper upside down and take a small amount of nail at a time until the quick can be seen.

3. Trim around the nail on all sides to the point where the nail looks like it was filed to a smooth, round edge.

4. If you do make the quick bleed simply apply a bit of Quick Stop to the nail and it will instantly coagulate.

DO NOT tolerate the dog yelping, pulling the foot away, dropping the head over what you are doing or threatening to bite. NEVER yell at him. ALWAYS praise him when he has been as good as can be expected.  When the puppies are young, I like to trim one foot per day, always with a treat after the trimming.  Soon, you will have a patient and trained puppy who doesn't mind the nail trimming at all.

Trimming Your Dog's Coat
Show dogs need extensive trimming before going into the ring. This include their belly, neck, ears, loin, tail, and rears. It is best to learn from a your breeder, a handler or another Doberman owner before you try this yourself.

PROBLEMS TO WATCH FOR

The problem free dog does not exist. The vast majority of dogs of all breeds and mixes live long, healthy lives, given proper care and veterinary attention. All dogs can acquire numerous medical problems, similar to those of human beings, from acne to viruses, cancer and slipped discs, allergies and heart disease. In addition, each pure breed of dog has its own unique problems, some minor, some impairing and some fatal. The Doberman is no exception. The following are descriptions of diseases found in Dobermans.

Neurologically Damaged Puppy Syndrome - NDP (water on the brain)
This can be diagnosed as soon as the puppy is born. It becomes more evident with each passing day. It is characterized by the puppy going in circles, deafness, lack of coordination and balance causing the puppy to have difficulty finding the nipple or food dish. The puppy is frequently lost in the whelping box. It does not get better and should be put down. The cause is not certain but there are very strong indications that it has to do with nutrition of the dam.

Acne
Usually this occurs in the 6-18 month stage with males being more susceptible than females. It is characterized by pustules and boils on the chin, muzzle and occasionally on the neck. It can be treated by keeping the area clean and dry. The cause is a bacterial infection, usually self limited, but it should be treated to prevent its spread or scarring or the encouraging of more serious skin infections.  An easy prevention is to wipe your dog's mouth when he finishes eating.

Hip Dysplasia
Although this is less of a problem in our breed than in many others, it does occur. It is a malformation of the hip joint so that the hind leg does not fit tightly in the hip socket. It is characterized by lameness and pain in severe cases. It is primarily genetic though some vets and researchers believe that environmental conditions (poor diet, obesity, playing rough with other dogs) can cause the disease or worsen the pain and suffering of an affected animal.  Hip x-rays done by your vet and sent to a certified organization (OVC, Pennhip, OFA) can tell you about your dog's hips.

Hypthyroidism 
This is a malfunction of the thyroid gland that can occur any time in the dog's life. It is characterized by obesity, lethargy and loss of coat. It can be diagnosed only by lab tests. Treatment consists of supplementary thyroid extracts. It is more common in the dilute colors than in blacks, and often has links to dietary imbalances.

Allergies
These are uncomfortable or dangerous reactions to common environmental substances that are not normally toxic. Symptoms can include everything from hives to diarrhea and life threatening reactions. Antihistamines are the treatment of choice, unless the allergy is to a food (in which case a change in diet is required). A specific allergy may not be hereditary, but the ability to form allergies can be passed on genetically or can even result as a reaction to a vaccine.

Von Willebrand's Disease (VWD)
This is a hemophilia like disease characterized by excessive bleeding. Dobermans are known carriers of this disease, but rarely do they exhibit massive bleeding leading to death. There is no practical long term treatment for the problem. Unlike hemophilia, either sex can be affected, and either can be a carrier. This is a genetic disease with a simple mode of transmission. Vet Gen laboratory uses a DNA marker for the test which identifies whether a dog is clear (cannot pass the disease on to offspring), a carrier (has one clear and one affected gene to pass on to offspring, but will not exhibit signs of excess bleeding) or "affected" (has two affected genes and can only pass on an affected gene to offspring; may exhibit signs of excess bleeding). Testing can be done as early as 7 days of age.

Panosteitis
Known as Pano, this is a type of "growing pain" found in immature dogs (6-12 months of age). It affects both front and hindquarters evidenced by temporary limping and joint pain. There may even be some swelling around the joints. Diagnosis is made by x-ray. Treatment is to limit the dog's activity until the disease has run its course. The cause is unknown, but body, build, nutrition and activity habits are suspected.

Eye Infections
An estimated 40% of canines suffer from hereditary eye defects such as cataracts or glaucoma. You can have your dog checked for these by a certified Eye Specialist. Some dog shows hold clinics for this test, called CERF, and the cost is usually under $40.

Wobbler's Syndrome (CVI) 
This is a malformation of the bones on the spine, usually around C4-C6 locations. It causes pressure on the spinal cord, thus producing pain, dragging of a front foot, shaking and lameness. It is almost impossible to diagnose prior to the dog's 3rd-6th year of age. Final diagnosis is made by a myelogram. Surgery is an option, though most treatment is still experimental. The disease likely has genetic roots, though diet, exercise, and injuries are also suspected to play an important role.

Gastric Torsion (Bloat)
Symptoms of bloat or torsion vary from a severe gas attack to immediate death. This disease occurs mostly in deep chested, large dogs. Treatment must be immediate and may require complex surgery. Symptoms are swelling and tenderness in the abdomen with or with out nausea or gas production. Some measure of prevention can be obtained by feeding small, more frequent meals, by moistening your dog's food with warm water, and by restricting activity and large quantities of water after meals.  Consult Purdue University for further information.

Cardiomyopathy
Dobermans suffer from heart disease. Although they are not the only breed to carry this disease, it is #1 killer of male Dobermans. NO LINES ARE FREE OF IT, no matter what you may be told. Some bloodlines have a higher incidence of cardio than others, but NONE are free of it. The unfortunate thing is that the mode of transmission is unknown and there is no definitive test to determine whether or not a dog is affected by cardio. Responsible breeders have ultrasounds and ECG's performed on their dogs, but a clear test is no guarantee that a dog will not get the disease later in life. Research to identify a DNA marker for cardio is currently being undertaken at MSU and Guelph University.  Annual holter monitoring is available through Guelph and several DPCC and DPCA chapter clubs.